Looking across the global skin care market, the facial mask is probably one of the few categories where Asia dominates. This is especially true in China, where, in recent years, the mask has become the fastest growing category. According to Ogilvy & Mather, the number of facial mask brands in China has quadrupled in the past two years, reaching 300 variants in 2014. The current market size is estimated to be $1.6 billion, with an average annual growth rate of nearly 30%.

With such tremendous growth, the market is flush with various masks claiming a dizzying array of ingredients and technologies, the vast majority of which draw inspirations from traditional skin care creams/lotion ingredients, such as botanical/Traditional Chinese Medicine extracts as well as hyaluronic acid, vitamins, minerals, collages and peptides. The function claims made by facial masks are also largely in line with the overall skin care sector, where brightening and moisturizing/replenishing are dominant, and anti-aging and anti-pollution/detoxifying are quickly catching up.

Diversification
With competition heating up, standing out from the crowd has become a major challenge for all brands competing in the facial mask market.  As such, we are now seeing brands trying to differentiate themselves by all means. Active ingredients that are well-known among consumers, whether from traditional skin care creams/lotions or food and pharmaceutical products, all play an important role in adding instant credibility to product efficacy claims and therefore helping differentiation.

Sharing such beliefs, manufacturers in food and pharmaceutical industries are also increasingly entering into the market with masks containing dietary or OTC ingredients that are easily recognizable by consumers. A recent example of such crossover is Northern Wilderness Agribusiness Group, a food and agricultural group based in China’s Northeast provinces. Its Northeast Professional Mask launched in Q3 2014 features extracts from grains and beans as well as traditional Chinese herbs such as ginseng and black fungus, all of which are staple crops and plants in Northeast China.

 Active ingredients aside, formulas that can deliver novel sensory feelings also help brands’ differentiation due to enhanced user experience; one such example is thermo active masks. Another notable example is the overnight mask. This rinse-free product claims to deliver convenient and intensive care for skin overnight—very similar to how a traditional night cream or lotion performs. The overnight mask’s watery, gel-like texture, as well as its fresh feeling and visible effect upon application, can help distinguish it from traditional products.

Substrates Matter
For peel-off mask sheets, there is another useful way of differentiation: substrates. Along with various claims, the substrates are also starting to diversify in terms of material sources, structures and shapes. Cotton-based nonwovens are the most widely used substrate material for masks, especially for lower-priced products. While most brand owners strive to differentiate and even upgrade their products to a masstige or even prestige level, the substrates made from other natural materials such as bamboo or wood pulp, or combined with different functional materials like charcoal or nano fibers are coming into play. 

 Such new substrates can not only facilitate brands’ environmentally-friendly and sustainable positioning, but also offer tangible skin care benefits by carrying more lotions, and therefore more actives, to the skin in comparison to synthetic or cotton-based nonwovens. And more actives usually enhance the user’s experience. But substrates can impart a feel-good factor. For example, ultra-thin light and transparent sheets can deliver a feeling of comfort even as they fit tightly to the contours of the face.

In the case of White Charcoal- (also known as Binchotan) based facial masks, it goes further by saying the substrate containing this particular type of wood charcoal can release anions to relax and calm skin during the application.

Another example worth mentioning here is Tencel, a wood-derived substrate that is said to soothe sensitive skin and release lotion on demand. The material is also promoted as being hygienic and sustainable. Heralded as a new age substrate by its manufacturer, Austria-based Lenzing AC and a local partner, Nox-bellcow (Zhongshan) Nonwoven Chemical Ltd., it is utilized by an increasing number of brands which are upgrading their products.

More Specific
As the facial mask sector becomes more segmented, new products are more specific in terms of application occasions and target groups, in an attempt to differentiate themselves from the others.

A recent example of more specific application is from CaoSheMingYuan, a brand under a well-known domestic OEM/ODM manufacturer, Guangzhou Jiebao Daily Necessities Co.,Ltd. Its latest series of masks,  launched in the fall, is called Before and After Makeup. As the name indicates, the masks are specifically for easy makeup application and long-lasting wear. Before Makeup contains algae extracts that are said to detoxify and nourish skin, while After Makeup features caviar extract and a jasmine extract in a charcoal-based mask substrate.

As with so many other personal grooming segments, men are increasingly regarded as a high potential group by brand managers, especially those whose products are distributed online or have high-end positioning. Some observers say claims for these men’s-only products are becoming as diversified as those for women. For example, Bossdun.Men, a local brand, launched a series of facial masks for men in their 20s and 30s. Built on a silk-containing substrate, the product makes a wide range of claims from oil controlling, hydrating and anti-acne to firming/anti-aging and after sun care.

Despite the fact that market penetration rate exceeded 40% in 2014, the facial mask market is still widely regarded as unsaturated, and new players keep coming. Differentiation will continue to play an essential role in a brand’s success, so it will be interesting to see just how far manufacturers and their substrate partners can take the facial mask market.

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Ally Dai
Happi China
Website: www.industrysourcing.com

Ally Dai is Deputy Editor-in-Chief of Ringier Trade Media Ltd, responsible for trade publications including Happi China. She has more than 10 years of experience in the cosmetic and food industries. Happi China is a leading media for the China household & personal care industry. Published by Ringier Trade Media in strategic editorial partnership with Happi, it helps local manufacturers update their knowledge on formulating, testing and packaging, as well as providing market insight.